Day 32 - To Zamora (5 miles)

I had originally planned another two night stayover in Zamora because I had been told it was beautiful with wonderful Romanesque architecture. However, a Spaniard suggested to me that two nights was in his view excessive; one day would be plenty if I arrived early enough. I am glad I took his advice; whereas Salamanca and Cáceres were cities of beautiful architecture Zamora is a place with beautiful architecture. Well worth seeing but, like Merida with its Roman gems, you sometimes have to seek it out.

The walls of Zamora old town sit on cliffs with the Rio Douro snaking its way around the base. I arrived at the albergue just inside the walls at 9am after an hour and a half of walking and a restless night. I dropped off my rucksack - I could not actually go in until 3pm - and set off exploring. Everywhere was shut: it is Sunday. Breakfast would have to wait until later and a phone shop until tomorrow; I have a broken charging cable and a dying mobile. I bumped into Bernadette, a Swiss walker, map in hand, and she happily let me join her as she explored the city: the old walls, Romanesque churches and cathedral (we were eventually asked to leave, I’m not sure why but I think maybe my companion ignored the 'no photographs' request), the castle and finally down to the river to see the old water mill buildings. Everything that was not a church was shut (and some of the churches were too). I bought her coffee and orange juice for her troubles and then she headed off to continue her journey. 

There is another reason I wanted to explore Zamora. It is a town where my route north crosses that of Laurie Lee's journey south just before the Spanish civil war and described in 'As I Walked Out One Midsummer's Morning'. I loved the book when I first read it, unaware of the author or his history (I bought it in more ignorant days simply because I loved the title). Last night I reread the section about Zamora but there is little that relates specifically to the city. However, as I sat having coffee and looking out over the main square a little later, I wondered where exactly in that plaza he had rested on first arriving and just how much of the city he would have recognised today.

By the time I was back at the albergue I had added the town museum and a light lunch to the list of things done. A long awaited shower, a change of clothes and a short siesta and I felt ready to face the rest of the day. I fell into the company of Jesús, an older Spanish guy, which definitely gave my Spanish a good workout and we explored a little more of the city together before rounding off the evening with a pizza and a quick walk back to the albergue before the 10pm lock out.