Day 23 - Galisteo to Camping (23 miles)

I was in no particular rush to leave this morning as I was in no rush to get anywhere in particular; with a choice of accommodation at seven miles or thirty the only sensible plan was to camp out somewhere in between. I had no end point in mind; my body and a spot that attracted me would dictate.

The previous three days had reinforced the need for good rest and good food when walking long distances. I had slept well last night, eaten two good meals yesterday and additionally it was cool and overcast this morning so the omens were good. I would walk for at least two hours, rest and eat and then continue in that manner until I had had enough.

The first leg unfortunately took me along road. I reached the tiny town of Carcaboso where I breakfasted in a busy cafe and bought more food for later. After this things improved and the next two legs were through shaded cork woods with spring flowers and grass and a number of small streams. It was all rather reminiscent of English parkland and would have made for perfect camping but I still had more miles in me. The end of the second leg also coincided with ruins of the Roman city of Cápara and its magnificent arch through which the Via de la Plata passes. Remote and peaceful, I had the place to myself and took the opportunity to explore briefly before setting off again. By now I was tired and hot from the miles and the sun, not too tired to continue but tired enough that my mind had begun that distracting and unconstructive internal debate of when and where I might stop. I continued in this mindset for more than an hour along wide gravel tracks and through a dry and tree dotted landscape until within seven miles of Aldeanueva del Camino and what would have been the thirty mile point for the day. Now though, the cork trees and open countryside were gone and I was faced with ever diminishing shrub alongside a quiet road. If I did not camp soon I would probably be forced to walk those last seven miles. I did not want that. It was my last opportunity to find a suitable place to stop for the night.

The campsite I found is far from scenic but it is set back from the road in a thin line of spindly trees and out of sight of the Camino. I have dined on bread and cheese and tinned squid and despite the afternoon I do not feel too exhausted. Hopefully I will sleep well and will be in Aldeanueva del Camino for breakfast.