Day 31 - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to near Zamora (16 miles)

Today was everything that yesterday was not. An ever present road was replaced by countryside; the non stop chatting of a walking companion was replaced by solitary silence and reflection; and the fast pace that he set - something I accepted yesterday given the unattractive nature of the route - was substituted with a gentle walk to make the most of the morning. In short, I was again back in a more natural landscape and embracing the tranquility offered. 

I spent the morning wandering through a patchwork of small fields and colour: the rich brown of freshly tilled earth; the bright yellow of rapeseed; and green wheat, caught by the breeze and shimmering in the sun. Short stumpy vines in perfect lines and a few trees added to this landscape before me. I walked the straight, white gravel track that cut through it to the horizon, watching clouds blow across the sky while behind me the sun on my back lit everything in the bright and warming light of morning.

By midday I had reached the tiny village of Villanueva de Campéan where I made for the cafe to kill a couple of hours before heading to within about six miles of Zamora, the next main town. I then planned to camp for the night which would allow me to arrive in Zamora early tomorrow and give me a full day exploring what I am told is a beautiful place. Various walkers from yesterday were either at the cafe or arrived while I was there; a German who I understand spends his life walking Caminos; Patrick, a Swiss resident who I got on well with yesterday; and Andre, a French man who is capturing his journey in paint rather than words and who did a quick sketch of me talking to Patrick. After a couple of hours of beer and coffee and comings and goings of various walkers I set off again. 

By the time I decided to look for a camp site I was in flat and open farming country with nowhere offering a place with any privacy away from the route. I have had to accept a flat area on a wider part of the Camino but it is late enough in the day that I should not be disturbed. I have dined on canned cockles, fruit and nuts and sat reading while waiting for darkness to fall. It is going to be a long wait.