Day 26 - La Calzada de Béjar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (13 miles)

Another day of green pasture and woodland, cool breezes, dry stone walls and a sense of Britain. Mid-morning I stopped for coffee in the tiny and remote village of Valverde de Valdelacasa, the metal pilgrim sculpture outside looking for all the world like the Wizard of Oz Tin Man on a pilgrimage. Early afternoon found me in a sun trap in woods where I allowed the heat of the day to lull me into a siesta before pressing on. Despite the stops I was still at Fuenterroble de Salvatierra by early afternoon.

Tonight I am staying in a religious albergue. I paid a donation for my overnight stay, my dinner and breakfast in the morning - there is no set price. I think we get fed using the money from yesterday’s pilgrims so I’m hoping they were generous! I think we get some sort of blessing later too. It’s a rambling well equipped place with dark rooms smelling of woodsmoke and with seventy beds hidden away in various dormitories. It is very rustic and interestingly decorated with, among other things, what I think are painted panels from old carts. Not everything has religious overtones.

With a long walk tomorrow I will be able to make Salamanca two days from now where, once again, I plan to spend an extra night exploring one of the major cities on the route.