There was heavy drizzle when I set out this morning despite a forecast for good weather all day when I checked first thing; I'm beginning to think I might have to get used to that while I'm in Galicia. As I walked in the rain, through fields and woodland, it felt even more like Britain than it did yesterday with a landscape of tree-covered rolling hills and farmland, partially obscured by cloud and showers. In the breaks between the rain the air was still and full of scent; flowers out in the fields and in the woods the heavy smell of fern and hints of eucalyptus from the tall, ribbony barked eucalyptus trees that have made an appearance in the last few days. It seems the wet weather brings out the smell of nature more than the warmth of previous days.
It was a short day and I was in no rush so I took my time, stopping at cafes in Silleda and Bandeira, the two small towns I passed through, where I chatted to other walkers who like me sought respite from the weather in a cup of coffee. In between it was another day of walking through woods and in and out of thankfully shallow valleys but with the addition of rain which in reality was more of a pleasure than a pain; it added a new mood to the scenery and alerted different senses.
By the time I reached my small albergue in the early afternoon the weather had improved. The albergue sits in splendid isolation in the countryside and is spacious and a stylish mix of wood, exposed stone and modern tiles, as you might expect from a place owned by two Italians. I am the only person here but I have found an old guitar in the corner of the bar (next to the ancient and massive stone wine press) and this has kept me - and I like to think the albergue owners too - entertained.
Tonight I expect to sleep well, no snoring from other walkers, hopefully no mosquitoes and definitely no motion activated lights that switch on in the dormitory every time someone gets up to go to the bathroom in the night, all of which I experienced last night. Tomorrow is another short day, my last before Santiago. I guess the excitement should be building however the fact that I am nearly at my destination after so long has not yet sunk in.
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