Day 45 - Ourense

One thing Ourense is well known for is its thermal springs. It was the natural hot springs along the river that originally attracted the Romans here and they are still used today. There are four or five baths spread over about four miles along the river bank, most are public and free and one is privately owned. It would be silly not to make use of Orense's most famous attraction and an invigorating thermal bath seemed just the thing for a weary pilgrim on his rest day.

The day started slower than expected when I was woken by thunder and torrential rain outside. The rain went on into mid morning so I relaxed in the comfort of my room waiting for it to stop before heading out for coffee and a visit to the tourist office to check on albergue closures in the next few stages and get more information on the springs. I was advised that the best ones are those furthest from the city so I set off along the unspoilt river bank for a four mile walk to reach the furthest public bath. I passed a couple of the nearer ones, right on the river's edge, not too busy and like a series of small, open, rocky lidos, before arriving at the slightly larger one I had been recommended. I changed and wandered down to the water's edge and was just about to get into one of the open baths when I was stopped by a supervisor. I was wearing shorts and I had to wear swimming trunks. Furthermore I had to have flip flops. I had neither. My protestations that I had walked from Cadiz, that my shorts were clean and that no one wore flip flops while in the baths fell on deaf ears. My only option was to walk a little further and pay to use the private baths where they could provide these things. 

For me the series of nicely tiled pools at the private baths lacked the rustic charm of the rocky pools of the public ones. But more disappointing still, these baths were set back from the river which was completely out of sight and so it lacked that intimacy with the water that the others had; somehow it seemed less natural. But the hot waters were very soothing and not too sulphurous and I spent nearly two hours relaxing and occasionally getting pummelled by high pressure jets before I headed off.

By the time I had caught a bus back to town, done some shopping and eaten it was time to head out again, this time to a guitar concert I had seen advertised in a little art centre in the old town. It was excellent, not quite flamenco but nearer flamenco than anything else I can think of as a comparison. The first piece he played had something to do with pilgrims so it seemed quite fitting that I was there.

I am now lying in my bed and smelling slightly of sulphur. It is looking like I have two long days ahead because of an albergue closure that would otherwise have made for a series of shorter stages so I am hoping for a restful night and good weather tomorrow in readiness for the 20 miles I face.